Biography

Alessandro Gogna is an Italian mountaineer, mountaineering historian, and mountain guide, born on July 29, 1946, in Genoa, Italy. He is recognized as one of the major figures in Italian mountaineering, having marked the transition between classical mountaineering and modern climbing. Since the late 1960s, Gogna made several first ascents, notably solo and in winter conditions. Among his most notable achievements: 1968: First winter ascent of the northeast face of Piz Badile; 1968: First solo ascent of the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses; 1969: First winter ascent of the Spiders' Route on the Grand Capucin; 1970: New route on the Marmolada di Rocca; 1972: South Face of the Grandes Jorasses; 1981: First ascent of the Aguglia di Goloritzè in Sardinia, contributing to the development of the Selvaggio Blu trekking route. Gogna has also participated in several international expeditions: 1973: Attempt on Annapurna, 1975: Expedition to the South Face of Lhotse, led by Riccardo Cassin, 1979: Expedition to K2, via the Abruzzi Spur... In addition to his work as a mountaineer, Gogna is a lecturer, writer, and environmental consultant. He has published several books on mountaineering and mountain conservation. He is also one of the founders and guarantors of Mountain Wilderness, an organization dedicated to the protection of natural areas.